Choosing Derby Wheels by Floor and Position
Derby skates aren’t as straightforward as the typical indoor pair. Heading out to a shop and picking up any old pair of wheels won’t cut it. The right durometer for your floor and your position can make a noticeable difference in how you skate. In derby skating, the details matter. Here’s a quick guide on how to narrow down the right derby wheels for your situation and position.
The Grip-vs-Roll Tradeoff
Every wheel choice in derby comes down to one tradeoff: grip versus roll. What makes it a tradeoff? Well, the more you have of one, the less you’ll have of the other. Finding the perfect balance depends on your floor and position.
Grip: Softer wheels (lower durometer) grip the floor better. This helps skaters achieve quick starts and sharper cuts. More grip = less roll speed, so surface and style will have an influence here.
Roll: Harder wheels (higher durometer) roll faster and with less resistance. This is better for achieving speed and a straighter glide. Though harder wheels may also be less forgiving on slicker surfaces.
Match Your Wheels to Your Indoor Floor
Floor surface affects grip more than almost any other variable. The best derby wheels for indoor floors, for example, can range between 88A and 95A. Consider this derby wheel durometer guide as a general guideline:
| Floor Type | Recommended Durometer |
| Sport court/Wood | 88A-95A |
| Slick/polished concrete | 84A-88A |
| Sealed or coated floors | 84A-90A |
If you’re unsure where to start, it’s a safe bet to begin with a softer derby wheel. You may prefer adjusting upward toward harder wheels than starting with wheels that are too hard for your surface.
Match Your Wheels to Your Position
Position affects how much grip or roll you need on any given surface. Use this as a starting point within your floor’s recommended range:
| Position | Priority | Durometer Tendency | Why |
| Jammer | Raw speed, acceleration, quick agile footwork | Softer end of range | Needs reliable grip to anchor quick direction changes without being pulled off the line or out of bounds |
| Blocker | Plow stopping, holding walls, lateral bracing | Harder end of range | Blockers need more slip from their wheels to execute quick adjustments, slowing down via plow or small hockey stops |
| Pivot | Both | Middle of range | Hybrid role requires jammer-like agility with blocker-level stability |
| Heavier skaters | Grip compensation | Harder by 2-4A | More body weight naturally compresses the urethane (surface), creating extra grip |
| Lighter skaters | Roll compensation | Softer by 2-4A | Softer urethane is needed to prevent sliding |
Important Note: These are tendencies, not rules. Your floor type still sets the baseline for what type of wheel you should use.
Skating on multiple floor types or in multiple derby positions? We’ll cover that next.
Hybrid Wheels and the Two-Set Strategy
If you’re skating on multiple surfaces or you’re subbing positions, you’ve got two options: either you use a hybrid wheel type that is balanced for most situations, or you have two dedicated sets.
Hybrid Wheels
Hybrid wheels tend to land somewhere between 84A and 88A. These are intended to perform well enough on multiple surface types and for derby skaters with multiple roles. Though keep in mind they may not be the optimal choice for any given surface. But that’s part of the deal you strike when you use them. Ask yourself: How often does my roller derby surface vary?
Two-Set Strategy
Pretty self-explanatory. Some derby skaters prefer to keep a wheel set for their home floor and one for different surfaces or situations, swapping as needed. The reason for this approach—as opposed to hybrid wheels—is you’re more likely to have the wheel you need without having to compromise.
Mix Hardness
Mixing wheel hardness can be a viable third approach. You’ll maintain the same wheel size and type, but with different durometers at different locations. Using softer wheels on inside edges can help with grip, while harder wheels outside can help with speed.
Putting It Together
Ready to pick your wheel? Consider this work-through a “cheat sheet” for guidance.
- Identify your floor. Wood, sport court, slick concrete? From there, start with the surface recommendations above.
- Factor in your position. Jammer, blocker, or pivot will nudge you toward the grippier or harder end of your floor’s range.
- Adjust for weight. Heavier skaters should go harder, lighter skaters softer.
- Decide on your strategy. One hybrid set, or two dedicated sets? Depends on how often your surface changes.
Every skater’s setup is different, and the durometer is just the starting point. Riedell skates are built so you can dial in fit, durometer, and component specs to your exact floor and position, so be careful not to settle for whatever a mass-produced lineup happens to offer.
Wheel Care, Rotation, and When to Replace
As you may know, roller skate wheels tend to wear unevenly. The dominant-side and inside wheels will wear down the most. To help combat uneven wear, you should rotate your wheels every 8-10 hours of skating.
Because roller derby skaters primarily skate counter-clockwise, the left-inside wheels take on the most wear. So, you should move worn left-inside wheels over to the right-outside positions to maintain balanced wear.
When to Replace Your Derby Wheels
- Flat spots you can feel on the floor
- Uneven wear across the set
- Noticeable loss of grip that rotation doesn’t fix
Expert tip: Check on your bearings when you replace your wheels as well. Worn or dirty bearings can affect the feel of your roll, and they may need to be swapped around the same time.
FAQs
Slick or polished floors call for softer wheels, around 84A-88A.
Generally speaking, they do. Jammers typically prefer harder wheels for maximum speed, while blockers may want softer wheels for lateral grip.
Hybrid derby wheels have a middle-to-soft durometer (84A-88A or so) to perform well across multiple surfaces.
You should rotate your wheels every 8-10 hours.